TURKEY - A PILGRIMAGE IN SEARCH OF ST PAUL

FOLLOWING ST PAUL BY LAND AND SEA

No journey to Turkey can begin anywhere other than Istanbul where east and west meet at the Bosphorus in a riot of colour, smells, people and wonderful buildings. We were met at the airport by our coach and our guide Sait – who was my guide on a previous visit and who was to be with us throughout our two weeks in Turkey. Such a useful person in providing all the information and finalising arrangements and sorting out problems that inevitably occur in a journey like this. But not least because of his encyclopaedic knowledge of his beloved country.

So, here in Istanbul (Constantinopolis, as Sait calls it) in a couple of days one can cram in visits to the Hippodrome, the Blue Mosque, and the Hagia Sophia (“Divine Wisdom”), once a Basilica, then a Mosque and now a museum. Include a visit to the Justinian Ciserns – underground – once featured in a James Bond film, and lunch at the Topkapi Palace where one can just spend the rest of the day drinking in the views, the treasurers and the atmosphere. A second day would include the Spice Market, the Grand Bazaar, the Suleimanye Mosque and the stunning frescoes and mosaics of the Church of our Saviour at Chora – now a museum. All that before lunch! Then there is then time to get on a boat and travel the Bosphorus stopping off for a wonderful repast at the Mer Restaurant in Tarabya.

The next morning an early flight took the party to Kayseri right in the middle of Turkey in the region called Cappadocia. We are now almost at the furthest point north in which St Paul travelled in “Asia Minor”. We immediately boarded a coach and headed off for the Zelve valley where we visited some weird pink stone “fairy chimneys” which, in many ways is reminiscent of Petra. After settling in to our hotel for a two night stay, there is time to relax with a swim in the pool before supper.

The next day was spent at the Goreme Open Air Museum. A fascinating area where we homes, churches, stores, and all manner of buildings are carved out of the rock. Some of these churches date from the very first centuries of Christianity. Over the next couple of days were to see some stunning paintings and mosaics.

In the afternoon an energetic few climbed the Kale – a rocky outcrop which gave stunning views. We also stopped at an underground city – Kaymakli which many found a little claustraphobic – but it was about the coolest place on an otherwise roasting day!

Then next morning most of us were up by

5 a.m. for a balloon ride over Cappadocia. This was amazing not least for the large number of balloons going up and down and gently gliding over the landscape. It was over all too quickly! But then it was back to the hotel for breakfast before setting off for the full day's programme, which included a visit to the Sultan Hani Caravanseri -excellently restored – and built like a cathedral. One could imagine when it was filled to the brim with travellers, animals, traders and full ofsmoke, noise, bartering and bustle!

We continued on our journey southwest, coming to Iconium (modern day Konya), which was a real spiritual centre. Here St Paul with Barnabas visited and made a number of converts– and here we encountered the Whirling Dervishes and the shrine to the mystic philosopher Celaddin Rumi. There was opportunity to borrow the local Catholic Church and celebrate the Holy Communion and reflect on the extraordinary tenacity of Paul and Barnabas who travelled so far on foot for the cause of the gospel. Hot, dusty, dry, but we travelled by modern air conditioned coach. Pilgrims are no longer so hardy!

The next couple of days included some amazing places visiting sites that Paul and Barnabas went to spread the gospel – Antioch in Pisidia (Yalvac), Derbe, Lystra and then Antalya. The first week finished with a visit to Aspendos – the best preserved Roman Amphtheatre in the world. It was truly stunning and we were treated to some singing by some school children which was truly lovely.

And so we began the second week, by coming to Finike marina where where embarked on a gulet for 7 days cruising along the south coast of Turkey. We had travelled over 500 km by coach in the steps of St Paul and now we were to relax and another way Paul and his companions travelled in order to spread the gospel.

Our gulet, Sultan A, was a most wonderful traditionally built craft with 8 twin en-suite cabins, and a crew of 3-4 to sail her and cook. It was a week of unparalleled luxury with some most wonderful dishes served for breakfast lunch and dinner all taken on the rear deck – under the cover of the awning, looking at some of the most spectactular views ever seen on the Turquoise Coast. At about 30 metres long she was large and spacious but also intimate enough for a

group of 14 people. Most sea going journeys were under motor power: sadly everytime the crew put up the sails the wind died away completely – it was one of those weeks. But a gulet under sail is quite an experience!Next time ---I promise!

Each day we would move on to a new place, journeying for 2-4 hours, leaving plenty of time to visit places on interest, and then relax, swim, sleep, read drink tea or have a glass of wine.

After a night on board we came to Myraere there are some magnificent Lycian tombs. Myra was the Metropolitan city of Lycia and St Nichol

as was Bishop in the 4^th century. In Myra there is a marvellous basilica which is a focus of pilgrimage for Russian Christians, and in the town there are 2statues – one the more traditional and the other

the more popular image of today. But I think I also like this one because she refused to move

until the picture had been taken!

I think she is Russian!

Our nights were often spent moored in one of the many rocky inlets along the coast, so it was always peaceful, and there was the opportunity to swim, or go ashore and walk. But being Sunday we celebrated Holy Communion and reflected on Paul, Nicholas and how blessed we were to be able to experience these lovely places.

The next few days were spent moving along the coast visiting the sunken city of Kekova, a Byzantine city, now submerged, to Kalekoy where the small hamlet climbs steeply to

the top, and where we were persuaded to purchase items made by the local women who were indefatigable in accompanying us to the top of the island

and back again, filling in the bits and pieces of history that even escaped our guide, Sait! We came to Kas where we stayed overnight in the little port. One afternoon, after a morning cruising along the coast we disembarked and boarded a minibus to take us into the heart of Lycia – to Xanthos and the Roman theatre and Byzantine citadel, and then to Patara, the birthplace of St Nicholas, and visited by St Paul on his thirds missionary journey.

Then next day we visited the Island of Gemiler which was the former site of a monastic community between the fourth and seventh centuries. There are still, on this small island, the ruins of seven churches, some still with wall paintings and a vaulted processional way linking the upper church to the monastery at the top of the island. Here again, we used one of the churches to celebrate Holy Communion.

We spent the last day cruising then into the harbour at Gocek for some last minute shopping and a real burst of reality as this busy little port was hosting a pop concert in the main square which kept the town and all its visitors awake until the wee small hours, when it was all too soon tim

e for the transfer to the airport for the journey home.

Why go on a pilgrimage? Ask the people who come on them! For some it brings the Christian faith alive: for others it is a life changing experience: for many it is the chance to have an unforgettable holiday in a Christian atmosphere enjoying some of the wonderful places of our world.

Turkey is a most wonderful land, full of lovely people. But there is a hint of sadness when one sees many ancient ruined churches and a tiny Christian presence. Did St Paul labour in vain?

Christopher Elliott

The English Language

There has been some comment in the newspapers, recently, about the poor spelling of many people who have passed through our education system. Teachers who cannot spell have also been in the limelight. As a one time school governor, way back in the mid 1980’s I know even then it gave cause for concern! But far be it from me to cast aspersions – I generally can spell accurately – but having done one little newspaper test only got 8/10!

But rooting through a box of papers recently I came across this little gem by U.N.Known.

Why English Is So Hard.

We’ll begin with a box, and the plural is boxes,

But the plural of ox should be oxen not oxes.

Then one fowl is goose, but two are called geese,

Yet the plural of moose should never be meese.

You may find a lone mouse or a whole lot of mice,

But the plural of house is houses not hice.

If the plural of man is always called men,

Why shouldn’t the plural of pan be called pen?

The cow in the plural may be cows or hine

But the plural of vow is vows not vine.

And I speak of a foot, and you show me your feet,

But I give you a boot – would a pair be called beet?

If one is a tooth and a whole set are teeth,

Why shouldn’t the plural of booth be called beeth?

If the singular is this and the plural is these,

Should the plural of hiss be nicknamed hese?

Then one may be that, and these may be those,

Yet the plural of hat would never be hose.

We speak of a brother, and also of brethren,

But though we say mother, we never say methren.

The masculine pronouns are he, his and him,

But imagine the feminine, she, she’s and shim!

So our English, I think you will agree

Is the hardest language you ever did see.